A morning behind the counter: our 4 a.m. bake

By the time the first customer walks in at 7 a.m., our kitchen has already been busy for three hours.

4:00 a.m. Ovens on

The brioche dough has been proving overnight. It gets shaped, rested and fried in small batches so the donuts are still warm when we open.

5:00 a.m. Cakes and tarts

Sponges go in while the custard cools. Tartlet shells are blind-baked, filled and topped with fruit at the last possible minute.

6:30 a.m. Finishing touches

Buttercream swirls, sprinkles, glazes and labels. Then a quick coffee, and we flip the sign.